With dozens of options lining the shelves of skincare aisles, picking a sunscreen can be challenging — especially if you’re someone who takes a deeper look at the ingredients and how they affect your skin and overall health. Fundamentally, there are two different types of sunscreens: mineral and chemical.
“Understanding the differences can help you choose the best option for your needs and health,” says Sophie Hertz, an esthetician at LifeSpa in Colorado Springs, Colo. “Your skin is the largest and most absorbent organ, and what you put on it can soak into your bloodstream. It’s important to be mindful about protection from the sun and protection from harmful chemicals.
“Both mineral and chemical sunscreens offer protection from harmful UV rays,” Hertz continues, “yet they work in very different ways.”
Why Do I Need Sunscreen?
Sunscreen is essential for protecting your skin from UVA and UVB rays. “Ultraviolet light contains radiation that changes the DNA inside skin cells,” according to the Mayo Clinic. This can lead to skin cancers such as basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma.
UVA and UVB rays can also accelerate signs of aging by contributing to wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and the breakdown of collagen in the skin.
As a general guideline, Hertz recommends applying SPF (sun protection factor) every two hours when you’re exposed to direct sunlight. “And if you’re sweating or swimming, reapply even more frequently,” she adds. “SPF can lose its efficacy over time. Every two hours is the guideline to ensure you’re always protected. If you’re not in direct sunlight or indoors for most of the day, reapplication isn’t necessary. However, it’s wise to add another layer of sunscreen if you’re heading outside during daylight.”
Mineral Sunscreen
If you’ve ever seen a lifeguard wearing a thick white strip of cream over their nose, that’s likely mineral sunscreen, which is also known as physical sunscreen. These formulas block both UVA and UVB rays, meaning they provide broad-spectrum protection.
“Mineral sunscreens contain active ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which create a physical barrier on the skin,” Hertz explains. “These blockers sit on top of the skin and reflect UV rays away from it.”
In 2021, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) reviewed 16 ingredients and out of them, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide were the only ones “generally recognized as safe and effective” (or GRASE) by experts.
Zinc oxide as an ingredient protects your skin by sitting on the surface and reflecting UV rays away from the body while also working to regenerate the skin and reduce inflammation. It’s also less likely to cause breakouts or irritation, making it suitable for all skin types. Titanium dioxide works in a similar way, sitting on the skin surface to reflect UV rays instead of absorbing in.
Another benefit of mineral sunscreens is that they are effective immediately upon application. “It’s great to be able to apply and go out in the sun right away without worrying about harmful rays,” Hertz adds. “In contrast, chemical sunscreens typically take about 20 to 30 minutes to start working as the ingredients need to absorb into the skin to become effective.”
One potential drawback to mineral sunscreen is that they can cause a white cast or discoloration because the ingredients sit on top of the skin. “The white cast is caused by the non-nano (larger) particles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which are naturally white in color, opaque, and don’t blend easily into the skin.”
To help minimize this, be sure to thoroughly blend the formula onto your skin. You can also opt for a mineral sunscreen formulated in a skin-tinted shade, which helps it blend better with your skin tone.
“One of my favorite tinted mineral sunscreens that doesn’t cause a white cast is Sun Defense Minerals by Éminence,” says Hertz. “It’s a powder mineral sunscreen available in six shades. It offers protection against UVA, UVB, and blue light, and is easy to reapply for touch-ups because it dispenses directly from a brush. I also like EltaMD UV Skin Recovery Red Color Correcting Green Tint Broad Spectrum SPF 50 for everyday use.”
Because it sits on top of your skin, mineral sunscreen may also not adhere as well if you frequently touch or rub your skin, so do your best to avoid this.
“Many gravitate toward mineral sunscreens for their skin-friendly properties,” says Hertz. “The ingredients are less likely to irritate sensitive skin and have fewer health concerns associated with them. This can bring peace of mind when choosing a product that you’re ideally applying every single day.”
Chemical Sunscreen
Chemical sunscreens contain organic (carbon-based) compounds that absorb UV rays and convert them into heat, which is then released from the skin, according to Hertz. “These sunscreens typically feel lighter on the skin and are easier to spread and rub in, yet they come with more risks than the mineral variety.”
Chemical sunscreens often rely on a combination of ingredients to provide broad-spectrum protection. Octinoxate, octocrylene, and homosalate help block UVB rays, while ingredients like avobenzone, Mexoryl SX, and Tinosorb are commonly used to block UVA rays. Oxybenzone is an ingredient that blocks both UVA and UVB rays.
Because they require multiple ingredients, chemical sunscreens do not always provide reliable broad-spectrum protection. “To ensure you’re protected from both UVA and UVB rays, look for products labeled ‘broad-spectrum,’” Hertz advises.
In the same 2021 FDA review mentioned earlier, octinoxate, octocrylene, homosalate, and avobenzone were deemed “not GRASE due to insufficient data.” Studies published by the FDA report that these ingredients are all systemically absorbed into the body after use and could be detected on the skin and in the blood weeks after they had last been used.
“This may raise potential concerns like hormonal imbalances due to certain ingredients entering the system,” says Hertz. “Additionally, chemical sunscreen is generally not recommended for infants or women who are pregnant or nursing. It’s essential to weigh these risks.” (Learn more: “How Do I Protect Myself From Too Much Sun Exposure and Avoid Toxic Sunscreens?”)
Chemical sunscreen ingredients can also have negative impacts on aquatic ecosystems, which has led to bans on certain ingredients — especially oxybenzone — in several places, including Hawaii, Key West, Fla., the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Aruba.
If you’re leaning toward using a chemical sunscreen, Hertz prefers a hybrid version that includes both mineral and chemical ingredients. She recommends iS Clinical Extreme Protect SPF 40 or iS Clinical Extreme Protect SPF 40 PerfecTint.
5 Tips for Choosing a Sunscreen
1. Consider your skin type and sensitivities: “If your skin is prone to break outs or irritations, I recommend sticking with a mineral sunscreen,” Hertz advises. “And if you have combination, dry, or oily skin, many sunscreens have additional ingredients that work best with your skin type. For example, the Eminence Organics Radiant Protection SPF 30 Fluid with Bakuchiol + Niacinamide is a mineral formula with moisturizing ingredients to combat dry skin.”
2. Opt for 30 SPF or higher: “Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 for daily protection,” says Hertz. “SPF 30 blocks approximately 97 percent of UVB rays. SPF 50 blocks about 98 percent of UVB rays. It’s important to understand that no sunscreen can block 100 percent of UV rays, so I recommend using other sun protection methods like hats, sunglasses and other protective clothing as well.”
3. Check the ingredients: When choosing a mineral sunscreen, look for zinc oxide or titanium dioxide on the ingredients list.
4. Choose a water-resistant formula if needed: “If you’re swimming or sweating, a water-resistant sunscreen can be beneficial,” says Hertz. “It’s important to note, however, that most sunscreens use binding agents for water resistance and many contain chemical ingredients. In this case, consider a hybrid product that combines mineral and chemical filters, as they can offer effective protection while being gentler on sensitive skin. Mineral ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide reflect UV rays, while chemical components help maintain effectiveness when wet. Keep in mind that no sunscreen is completely waterproof; reapply after swimming or sweating regardless of the type.”
5. Use the Environmental Working Group’s (EWG) database as a resource: You can search for sunscreen products that meet the EWG’s standards for health, transparency, and efficacy.
“The most important thing is to wear sunscreen daily and reapply often,” Hertz concludes. “It’s your best defense against sun damage, premature aging, and skin cancer. Once you’ve applied your sunscreen, you’re ready to have some good fun in the sun.” (Learn more: “Which Sunscreen Is Right for You?”)
